Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Provence - shorts and t-shirts!


20th April

Wake up to more light snow and don’t have any coffee or breakfast, just climb straight into the front and start driving. Find our way on the correct road again and seem to be driving even higher. The weather sets in. Visibility down to about 20 metres and the snow is so thick on the ground it’s hard to make out the edge of the road. Even the French are driving slowly! We creep down the mountain and it begins to clear; looking behind us we can see we’ve just come out of a huge cloud. We come out the other side into Provence where the weather is better (still not hot hot hot) and Pete is very excited about all the wild thyme and rosemary everywhere! We pass a few campsites but as it is still early we decide to drive on see what we can find. It is about 2 o’clock in the afternoon and we want to set up and have a long evening somewhere. After driving back and forth along winding roads searching for campsites only to find that they are either closed (we are out of season) or all singing all dancing 4 stars way out of our price range. We are beginning to get tired of driving. We think about going to Granny’s house but I lost my phone somewhere along to way and can’t call her to warn her. More driving, it’s coming up to 6 o’clock now, and we’re at the end of our tether. We end up giving in and heading to a big 18 euro campsite. On the way we see another sign for a campsite next door, but it looks just like a house at the moment (probably closed until season starts) but we drive in anyway. I give my biggest smile and ask ‘Camping?’ to the lady that greets us and she is kind enough to let us stay one night for free as long as we don’t need water or toilets! Perfect! We are very happy and crack open our box of red instantly! Have a lovely dinner in the setting sun and even find wild rocket growing right outside our van. Couldn’t have worked out better.

Pete says do one Jon Woodfine for saying there are cheap municipal campsites in every town!





21st – 24th April

Arrive at Granny’s early to find that mum is on the phone freaking out because I lost my phone. A lady has called from a tourist office somewhere we haven’t even been and said she will send my phone to Granny’s house- isn’t that nice!

We have four days of eating lots of cheese, drinking wine that was grown in the vineyards we can see whilst we're drinking it and soaking up the 23 degree sunshine! All the food we eat is amazing- and there was so much of it we nearly burst. We visit the Fountaine de Vaucluse, a stunning town set on the side of a hill called Gordes and Senanque Abbey with Granny and Francis. We have a lovely morning at the Vaison market where we pick up some olives and sundried tomatoes and go up and down the food area tasting the free testers of chorizo and cheese. Granny also takes us to visit Avignon briefly and we see where the Pope lived for 100 years and visit a fort with the most amazing smelling gardens we’ve ever seen. One afternoon me and Pete drive to the Dentelle mountains and go for a great walk right up and over; really fun, proper ramble over the rocks (I remember doing this when I was little with Mum, Dad and Charley!) On the last night we go out for a lovely meal with fois gras to start and I had pigeon and Pete had dorade for main. Anyway, we were completely spoilt and don’t want to leave Granny’s, or Provence as we have fallen in love with it!


River at Grannys. ^





Fountaine de Vaucluse. ^


Gordes. ^


Senanque Abby. ^



Vaison market. ^








Climbing the Dentelles. ^





Avignon and gardens. ^

25th April

Start getting ready to go and drive into Sablet to get some bread and other provisions. My phone hasn’t arrived yet and Granny is determined to find the postman to find out where it is. We drive around chasing yellow vans and eventually we find the post lady for the area. She is not the one who delivers to Granny’s but she says she has seen the package and it will arrive today! Have another ridiculous lunch before leaving, say goodbye and set off towards the Pont du Gard (with phone). The drive is short but again we are confronted with expensive 4 star campsites. Have a stressful couple of hours driving and driving. We spend a good half an hour driving around the narrowest walled streets following signs that are there and then not followed up at the next junction. (We have actually found that the French are very good at starting to point you in a direction and then leaving you in the lurch!) We give up and settle at a very nice, but pricey, campsite just outside of Uzes. The weather is quite overcast but warm and we have a lovely evening eating, drinking and playing cards.



26th April

Have a relaxed morning with fried egg breakfast and enjoy the hot showers. We have put out the awning (as we saw rain was expected) and Pete manages to secure it so we can roll it out from the van when necessary. We set off towards the Pont du Gard (a Roman aqueduct over the river Gard which I again remember from holidays in the past when I have canoed underneath it and it was free to look at. Unfortunately today is not the weather for canoeing.) As expected see that you have to pay a large amount to park up and get a ticket to see and walk over it. All routes or views are shielded unless you pay. Obviously we are not going to pay 18 euros to do this so we find a free car park in Remoulins, the town next to the Pont du Gard, where there is a market just shutting down. Walk the 2 kilometres to the entrance of the tourist office where a little man runs over saying ‘it is not free’. We tell him we just want to walk into the hills and he lets us up a path that leads up the hill and into the forest. It starts going away from river but we see a small track going up off the main path that appears to be going in the right direction. Rambling along the path we come around a corner and there it is! The Pont du Gard in all its glory! We keep going and find another part of the Roman ruin, where the aqueduct must have continued, in the forest. Down another track we suddenly find we are at one end of the top level of the aqueduct. There are other people here too and we follow a sign to a ‘panorama’ and get an incredible view from the other side. We wonder if the other people have also got here for free but after following another track we end up underneath it and able to walk onto it for free! There are no ticket people and we walk over it without paying 18 euros! Walk back to the van and have cheese and bread lunch in the car park. When trying to leave we realise the entrance we came through is locked (must have only been open for the market) and the other entrance has a barrier of 1 and a half metres. We are stuck. Very very luckily there is a rubbish van just leaving at exactly the same time who let us out. Don’t know what we would have done if not! Stop in a supermarket and for a wander around Uzes on the way back to campsite. Uzes is a really old medieval town which is beautiful with old churches and lovely squares. (Forgot to mention all the amazing plain trees everywhere in France which they train to grow into overhead canopies of green to provide shade in summer. Usually in squares in the towns and along the roads.)  We can’t afford to get a drink anywhere though so we head back to camp and have dinner, drinks and chill out.








Who said Northern France was boring?


17th April

Van packed and ready to go.




Arrive in France in glorious sunshine, surrounded by lush green fields. Spring has definitely arrived, unlike in Brighton. Drive through very pretty villages for a couple of hours or so and are very lucky to find a campsite (on a detour) in the small town of Anet. Funny campsite with lots of caravans that look like they’ve been there for years; with garden gnomes and everything! We have a pretty spot next to the river and find a patch of Jack-by-the-hedge growing right next to our van. Eat this with pasta for dinner.




18th April

Coffee in the sunshine before setting off for a longer drive (about 6.5 hours). Stop for brunch in a small town along the way and stock up on food and drink at a huge supermarket. Pete is having to get used to the French way of driving, this involves tailgating just inches from the bumper and overtaking at the most life threatening moment; even the lorries. Again we stumble across a campsite with no problem in a village called Blet. This campsite is just a patch of grass next to a lake with basic loos and lots of pretty willow trees. Lovely view of the town which has a beautiful chateaux and is very stereo-typically ‘French’ . Play Frisbee and eat dinner in the sunshine again!




19th April

We attempt to buy ‘un baguette’ in Blet in the morning but end up getting told off for trying to park in private property and haven’t got used to parking the van in the tiny French village streets yet! Another long drive today with a stop off in a Fromagerie to get some cheese for lunch. There is a hole in the floor where you can see all the cheese on the maturing racks. Begin to climb to Ardeche mountains- wow! Starting to get rainy, feels like Autumn suddenly, but the views of the gorges are amazing and the villages are beautiful. The roads are winding with hairpin bends and steep drops on the edge. Begin to look for a campsite but find a lot of them are quite expensive. Keep driving through the mountains and it starts to snow. We can’t believe it! We come to a cross roads and realise we’ve taken a wrong turn somewhere (probably from gawping at the views). Decide to pull up at the next campsite, despite the price. It seems completely deserted and there is no one there to show us in, but we don’t want to keep driving so we just set up anyway. A man eventually comes around to collect our euros and tells us we can use the toilet in and shower in the chalet next to us. Because of the rain we have more cheese and bread for dinner. 






Tuesday, April 2, 2013