7th February
The weather this morning still wasn't great but at least the rain wasn't constant and we decided we would go to find the lost villages. We drove back to Lousa and after a few diversions and a stressful drive through the centre of town, following road signs, we finally found the castle where the walk started. We parked and set off. There was some drizzle but there was also occasional patches of sun and the hills we walked through were beautiful. The trees were all covered in yellow blossom and smelt amazing. The track we chose passed two 'lost villages'. A few of the buildings were abandoned and crumbling into the ground, but we found that the villages were definitely lived in, at least in summer. They were very beautiful, made with local stone and blending into the hills, and we only saw a couple of other people walking. The walk was a round trip and took about three hours. When we were back at the van we had lunch and decided what to do. The plan was to camp there at the castle, but there were lots of workers around as some rocks and mud had fallen into the road. We decided that we would head in the direction of Aveiro - a town on the coast with canals and gondalas. We passed back through Coimbra and the drive was quite quick as it was all main roads. When we got to Aveiro the rain had really started again and we couldn't see anywhere to stop for the night. So we carried on to Costa Nova, which is over a big bridge and built on a sand spit. The weather was really miserable and the town was deserted. But there was an area for campers near the beach and the town was quite cool as all the houses were painted in different coloured stripes. But apart from a look at the beach, when the rain stopped for five minutes, we stayed in the van. In the night we had to move to the shelter of a side street as the wind and rain were rocking us around so much we couldn't sleep at all.
The starting point. ^
The path was over grown in places. ^
The first village. ^
from afar. ^
Second village. ^
Costa Nova.^
8th February
The rain was still non-stop but we drove back to Aveiro to have a coffe and a look around. There were a few colourful boats around - including one with a picture of a girl flashing her knickers - and some pretty, old buildings, but apart from that the town was quite un-inspiring. We couldn't find a centre anywhere and most things were closed - and the weather didn't help. We stopped for coffee and a custard tart in a local cafe and saw on the news that there were floods around Portugal, Spain and France and on the weather that there was more rain to come! Not very encouraging. We set off for a long drive to get to the otherside of Porto. The drive saw slow and boring along a road lined with small towns and lorries. Getting through Porto without using the motorway was also quite 'interesting'. We were both very tired by the time we pulled into Ofir to stop. Ofir felt more like a resort than a town but we found a nice place to park (protected from the wind off the sea) and the sun even came out eventually. There were hordes of people around and we wondered what was going on - it was a Saturday but the weather wasn't great and there was nothing to do here. We went out to see what the fuss was about and found that some of the promenade had fallen down in the storms and that a huge sand dune had collapsed and a house was now very close to the edge of it. We assume this is why there were hundreds of people driving in and out all day! Anyway, we managed to use the internet in the cafe and had a peaceful nights sleep away from the crashing waves.
Aveiro. ^
Ofir. ^
9th February
For our last morning in Portugal we stopped in Viana do Castelo for our last espresso and custard tart. The town was very pretty but completely deserted on this wet, grey morning. We carried on and soon after we crossed the border back into Spain. This region is called Galicia and is known for its wildness, Celtic history and non-stop rain. Our first stop was A Guarda, just over the border, to see a Celtic ruin. We followed a winding track to the top of a hill to find a ruin of circular stone huts. Only the bottom few feet were left but it was cool how close together and higgeldy piggeldy they were. We had planned to try and camp here but in this weather we were worried we'd get blown off the hill. So we went back down and carried on up the coast with massive Atlantic rollers hitting the side of the road. It definitely felt wild! We stopped for lunch in a lay-by and then carried on to Baiona, where we stayed for the night. We drove through the town, which had a fort and looked quite nice, and then found a place to park by the beach. We were in a small bay so the sea was calm - there were even people out surfing! It was a great free camp - there were people out walking along the beach and there were even toilets. After chilling out in the van for a while we went for a walk into town. The sea front was quite pretty but the back streets were more interesting as the old stone lanes were narrow and there was a lively pub on every corner. It felt like a town where pirates would stop to get to drunk! We went to have a look at the fort, but didn't go inside, and when we were too cold and wet we headed back to the van. Annoyingly we had to move again in the night because it was so windy and we couldn't sleep through the sound of sand blowing against WEX!
Viana do Castelo. ^
Celtic ruins in A Guarda. ^
Baiona. ^
10th February
We woke up early and drove back to the beach so we could make a cup of tea and use the loo. We found the place we'd been parked about a foot deep in sand and were very glad that we'd moved! The day was looking good and as we headed inland the clouds cleared and the sun came out. Yay! We didn't know where to go but we'd decided to get away from the coast now whilst the weather was bad. After passing Pontevedra we left the main road to pass a town called Cuntis, just because we thought it was funny. This area was quite built up and not as pretty as we expected - which was a bit disapointing as I had read that Galicia was rural and quiet. We carried on driving and were very happy when we saw a sign for an 'aire'. We followed the road and drove around for about an hour looking for this aire - which ended up to be non-existent. But we didn't mind too much as the sun was shining and we had now found a very green, very beautiful area. After giving up on finding the aire we carried on to Monterroso - where we were tempted by a campsite sign. The campsite was closed but there was a perfect free camp by a lovely park (which was half flooded from the river!) We spent the afternoon relaxing and enjoying the sun whilst we had it. We had a great sleep here.
Around. ^
Camping at Monterroso. ^
11th February
We woke up to the sound of hail but we just put the kettle on and stayed cosy in bed. This was a good, out-of-the-way place and we thought we could definitely stay here for another night. But whilst we were reading and having our tea a police car came and drove very slowly past us. This has happened a few times and we think it is their way of letting us know they know we are there. Really annoying. We didn't want to deal with any police so we got up and went on. The scenery was getting very pretty now, and once we'd passed Lugo we started climbing into the mountains. There were incredible views (through the rain) and even some snow. We got to A Fonsagrada, which looked like an isolated Alaskan town with snow on the roads and lots of un-smiling people. There was a campsite here and the gate was actually open so we decided to stop there for the night. The grass pitches looked worringly boggy so we parked on the concrete outside the on-site gym. We chilled out for the day but we were pretty disapointed with this campsite as there were no lights on in the evening, no electricty, nowhere to wash up, we were given the gym toilets to use and the showers were cold - and they still charged us 14 euros.
Driving. ^
Campsite in A Fonsagrada. ^
12th February
We were already annoyed with the campsite and to make it worse we woke up to find the gym - and the toilets - locked. We searched the campsite, but the owners were out. We waited until about half ten until a customer for the gym turned up with her own key. We wanted to complain to the owners but at eleven o'clock they still hadn't turned up and we'd already wasted the morning. A very annoying waste of money! Anyway, we drove on and followed a winding road along a river and through some fantastic scenery. It was misty and mountainous and beautiful, with nice villages dotted along the road. We were driving less than two hours when we saw a sign for an 'aire'. It was behind a recreation area 2km north of Llano and was the best aire we've seen - in summer it would be amazing as there is a swimming pool and everything! We had a wander around, taking in the views and then had another day reading and relaxing. We are really enjoying do nothing as we know we will have to be back at work soon! We had a really lovely evening staying up and drinking beers - it was so peaceful in the mountains.
Driving. ^
The meeting of two scruffy hounds. ^
Aire in the mountains. ^
13th February
We spent the morning slowly following the same road along the river - with more gorgeous views of lakes and waterfalls. Then suddenly we were at the north coast and on a motorway heading east. We were feeling a bit hungover from last night and didn't want to drive too far, so we pulled off the motorway at Cadavedo and found a place to camp on the beach. The weather was good and the sea looked calm so we thought we'd be alright. We had a really nice afternoon walking on the beach - a beautiful cove surrounded by cliffs - and we found a little track going up the cliff on one side. There were people out for a stroll and a few fishermen around and in the evening there was even a surfer. It was a really nice, warm evening and we sat out on the picnic benches playing cards until it got dark.
Driving. ^
Camping on the beach in Cadavedo. ^
14th February
We set off quite early and had an easy drive along the coast, passing Gijon, on the motorway. It's a shame that they've built this new motorway here as the coast is stunning with rolling green hills dropping off into the sea. We came off the main road and took a small wiggly road that climbed up the hills. We stopped for lunch - which we ate outside on our picnic rug, looking down to a pretty beach and looking up to a rocky mountain. After lunch we kept on going up until finally we came to the top and got our first view of the Picos de Europa (Peaks of Europe.) The panoramic view of this incredible mountain range was breath-taking, with massive snowy peaks along the whole horizon. This view made us very excited to get into them, so on we drove. Before long we got to Cangas de Onis where I had read there was an 'aire'. We spent a long time driving around town looking for it but it was no where to be seen. In the end we parked in the truckers stop and went for a look in town anyway - but first we had to get changed as it was 25 degrees outside and we were boiling! The town was nice, although quite touristy, and we went to the tourist information to find out about walking in the mountains. She told us about a walk we could do and a drive up to the lakes. This was useful and we went to a local bar to decide what to do. We had left Galicia now and were in the region called Asturia - which is famous for it's cider. We ordered a bottle and they served it in the traditional way - pouring it into the glass from above their head, whilst not looking down at the glass! We quickly decided that we wanted to drive up to the lakes today as it was still only early. So we took the rest of our cider with us and headed up the mountain. The lady in the tourist info had said it was a half hour drive to the lakes but she didn't say just how wiggly and steep it was. WEX and Pete were having a bad time driving (WEX is getting tired) and we were about to give up and turn around when we came to the first lake. We jumped out to have a look around - the lake and surrounding views were absolutely amazing, some of the most impressive mountains we've seen. But it was blowing a hoolie and the clouds were beginning to roll in so we got in the van and went back down the mountain until we got to the town of Covadonga. There is an impressive basillica and not much else, but we found a nice place to park and camp for the night. Pete cooked a delicious chili and we finished our cider from earlier. In the evening we searched out the bar and shared another bottle of cider, played cards and celebrated our two year anniversary!
Lunch. ^
View point to the Picos de Europa. ^
Drive up to the lakes. ^
Covadonga. ^
15th February
We were tempted by the 24 kilometer walk that we had been told about and set off early to do it. We drove to Arenas de Cabrales and then turned into mountains to Pandebano (not a steep drive) where we parked the van and headed off. The walk follows a valley/gorge, between huge stone peaks, along a powerful, gushing, turquoize river. But the path doesn't just follow the river at the bottom; it has been cut into the edge of the cliffs so you walk with a massive sudden drop off on one side and the mountains soaring above you. It was incredible. It wasn't a circular walk - it was 12 kilometers each way - but it was flat(ish) and not too difficult. We took alot of photos as the views were so amazing and at the end the path turned into a tunnel and we found we were behind a waterfall! The mountains were sheer, rocky and very imposing and it was very funny to spot the crazy mountain goats hopping along these ridiculous edges. There were also a few old, stone houses dotted around that we couldn't understand why or how they were there. The destination of our walk was a village called Cain, where we sat by the river and ate our packed lunches. After a short rest we turned around a went back. In total we were walking five and a half hours and when we got back we felt sore and tired! We drove back down to Arenas de Cabrales where we parked in a big car park with a couple of other campers. It was already dark but it was Saturday night and the town was nice and lively, so we went out to a bar for a couple of bottles of cider. It was a fantastic day walking and a really fun night out.
HA! ^
Walking. ^
Arenas de Cabrales. ^
16th February
Our drive out of the mountains was very scenic and along the coast the rolling green hills were ridiculously pretty. We stopped in Unquera for a morning coffee and croissant and then carried on to a beach just after San Vicente de la Barquera. We stayed here for a while soaking up the sun and enjoying the postcard view of the sandy beach backed by green hills backed by snowy mountains - perfect. We had lunch on the beach and then decided to go into San Vicente for a look around. It was a sunny Sunday and all of Spain were out in this town! We managed to find somewhere to park and eventually we found a cafe with a spare table, so we stopped for a coffee. It was a lovely, lively seaside town. Sadly the beach we were parked on earlier had a sign saying 'no campers' and a 30 euro fine. We didn't even have 30 euros left so we decided not to risk it! We kept on the coast and a little bay just a few kilometers before Suances. The beach was nothing special - especially because the tide was right in so it wasn't even there - but the waves were massive and you could walk up the top of the hill and take in the views of the coast to the west. We are taken back by how pretty this area is - we weren't expecting it! We hung out in the van for the rest of the afternoon and had a good evening reading and playing cards.
Amazing. ^
Lunch. ^
Camping on the beach. ^
17th February
We woke up really early and drove to Santillana to have a look around as we had been recommended it. Annoyingly we were too early and we found nothing open and decided to pass it and go to Suances instead. We needed a shop to get provisions for the ferry tomorrow, so we parked on the edge of town and walked in. We managed to find a small supermarket and had a coffee in a very trendy coffee chop. Then we drove down to the beach - still Suances but down a big hill. It was quiet down there compared to the town and we found somewhere to park by the beach. We spent the day reading in the sun and cooking and preparing food for tomorrow. It was a lovely, relaxing day. The plan was to drive to Santander tonight and try and park near the port so we were there first thing. So at about five we set off and followed the motorway all the way to the port - only about half an hour. The drive was surprisingly easy. But when we got there all the parking around was maximum two hours so we couldn't stop and had to leave the city again. We looked in a couple of towns for somewhere to camp but in the end we went back to Suances and parked in a small car park by the closed campsite. There were a few bars open along the seafront and we went for a couple of beers in a little tavern - our last drinks out of the trip. Annoyingly they weren't exactly what we wanted as the bar girl was horribly rude and served us the end of the barrel, so it tasted rank. We decided to just by some beers from the shop and have a nice evening in WEX instead. We went to sleep feeling very upset that it was our last night sleeping in our little home.
Suances. ^
18th - 19th February
We woke up in the dark and set off for Santander. The ferry was mostly Brits in campers and sadly Pete got sea sick for almost the entire journey. Apart from when we did the quiz (and won!) he stayed in our ensuite cabin, in the dark for nearly the whole time. I read my book and in the evening watched the cabaret - one magician - and was the volunteer twice! Fun. We arrived in Portsmouth in the morning feeling sad. What an amazing journey.
Bye bye! ^
Inside. ^
Hello! ^
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